What Udon?
My great auntie Dolly would never have tolerated it. In her hey-day she tolerated little: holding a knife and fork incorrectly, talking with one’s mouth full, inappropriate napkin deployment… Born at the end of the First World War, she worked in some of London’s best hotels after the second instalment, and grew up with a very different understanding of acceptable behaviour than anyone I’ve ever known. At her worst, she was a hawk, and a harridan, and for a number of years my brother and I were terrified of visiting her. I think my mother was too. She softened over the years, though, and eventually – once we youngsters had reached adulthood – she actually became pretty good company.
But even at her most mellow, I cannot imagine for one second she would have put up with slurping food while we ate. No, having had been flayed with admonishments, we’d likely have been sent out in the back garden, left alone to contemplate our woeful lack of manners.
History should think itself lucky that great auntie Dolly never made it over to Japan: it would have been a diplomatic disaster. In her pomp, she would have cleared a restaurant of noisy noodlers, snapping at their heels with words of chastisement.
What she wouldn’t have understood – and what we are only now coming to terms with – is that in Japan, no matter how rich or poor a person is, no matter if they’re wearing a tailored suit or tattered rags, the only way to eat good food is loudly, and with gusto.
For silent munchers like us British, it’s quite a thing to get over. Initially, listening to someone suck down their lunch was no easier than listening to the dreadful Chinese practise of clearing partially blocked airways with phlegmatic flair. But the Japanese slurping is not caused by ignorance, nor carelessness: noisily supping at the flapping, slapping noodles is a good thing. It shows satisfaction, contentment and a desire to eat more. After two months in Japan, we’re just about adjusted to the noise, although we’ve stopped short of actually making it ourselves. I have, however, mastered the art of getting noodle broth to spatter over my entire face, like a soup-vampire gone feral.
Not that anyone noticed today while were in Sakaeda, an outstanding traditional udon restaurant in downtown Takamatsu. Nope, there, with orders being shouted, and people rushing to and from communal tables, everyone was very much concerned with their own meal. Taking the patrons as a cross-section of Kagawans, they’ll each eat an average of 260 bowls of udon a year, consumed in Sakaeda, at home, or at any of the other 899 noodle restaurants in the prefecture.
This place is especially busy, however, with a long reputation for providing delicious Sanuki udon (the local speciality) at rock-bottom prices. A medium sized bowl, with one piece of gigantic tempura (deep-fried anything) only costs around 250 yen (£2) which, in Japan, is little short of miraculous.
Actually, all of Kagawa is mad about udon, and tourists in Japan’s smallest prefecture are bound to try it at some point during their visit. That seems only right as it is believed to have originated in this area. For first-time visitors to Japan, sorting out what noodle is what can be initially daunting. Really, though, there are three basic types: soba (a near-purple buckwheat noodle primarily eaten in mountainous areas and the north of Japan), ramen (the classic near-yellow noodle made from wheat flour, and often found in potted insta-snacks) and udon (a fat, white offering made from flour, then rolled and cut by hand).
Here in Sakaeda, the practise is to pick up the noodles, then add your own toppings (we liked the ginger and sesame the best) before covering the lot in a soy broth. It’s by far the most filling of the different types, and seems to be the longest of all the noodles, meaning that more and more slurping is required to get rid of it. That said, when your mouth is chocked full with the plump juiciness, and bits of stray lunch are clinging to your hair and eyebrows, it’s hard not to feel incredibly satisfied. So what better way to convey this to all in the room? Great aunt Dolly forgive me – SLURP!
Our time in Kagawa prefecture was made possible by:
A list of people in Kagawa prefecture so long it almost doesn’t make sense. Tamiko Motoyama, Mr Okura, Ms Machiko Isiakawa, Ms Kuniko Tanaka, Mr Kitsukawa and at least half a dozen others who guided, drove and helped us around for the past two days. They very kindly arranged a meeting with the city’s mayor and his deputy too, which was a great surprise.
Guiding here is much harder than it sounds: Kagawa may be the smallest prefecture in Japan, but it has much more in it than a lot of its larger cousins. If anyone is planning a second trip to Japan, or perhaps doesn’t fancy the crowds that fill Tokyo, Kyoto et al, then we recommend simply coming here. There’s world-class art, an absolutely fantastic garden (which only isn’t regarded as one of the best in the country because of some idiotic politics during the start of the Mejii restoration), and the longest shopping arcade in the entire country. Added to that, there’s some of its most visited shrines and temples, and the excellent noodles, of course. Basically it’s all of Japan, in miniature.
Kiyomisanso Hanajukai, an outstanding ryokan-style establishment that sits atop a hill in the middle of Takamatsu, Kagawa’s biggest city, like a giant octopus. As a result, the views are absolutely staggering – comfortably some of the best we’ve had in the entire country. The rooms aren’t half bad, either: spacious affairs with loads of sliding doors, and a private hot tub that also lets you enjoy those superb panoramas.
Iroha Kaikan Hall, part of the Zentsuji Temple, which gave us a chance to stay with pilgrims again. Staying in a place like this isn’t really about luxury, but something more spiritual. Hopefully when we’re woken at 5:45am tomorrow, we’ll be able to work out exactly what that is when we take part in a early morning ceremony.
叔母のドーリーはとにかく厳しい人だった。彼女の“全盛期”には、ナイフやフォークの使い方が悪かったり、口の中に食べ物が入っているのに話をしたり、ナプキンの置き方が間違っていたりしただけで、もの凄く叱られたものだ。第一次大戦後に生まれ、ロンドンの一流ホテルで働いていた彼女は、私が今まで出会った中で最も“礼儀作法”に厳しい人で、私も弟も長い間彼女の事を心底恐れていた。恐らく私達の母でさえもそうだったに違いない。もちろん年を取るにつれて彼女は丸くなり、そして私達も大人になり、とてもいい関係を築けるようになったのだが・・・。
とは言うものの、音を立てながら食事をするなんていう姿を彼女が許すとは到底思えない。そんなことをしようものなら、おそらく裏庭に連れて行かれ、お行儀の悪さを反省させられるに違いない。
そう考えると、叔母さんが日本に来た事がないのは本当にラッキーだ。もし彼女がここにいたら、政治的問題に発展するかもしれないくらい、大騒ぎになっていたはずだ。大きな音を立てながら麺類を食べている日本人を見たら、彼女は一人一人注意して回り、下手をすれば手を挙げてしまうかもしれない・・・。
が、ここは日本。日本ではお金持ちであろうと、そうでなかろうと、高級な洋服に身を包んでいようと、そうでなかろうと、麺類は音を立てて楽しく食べる。これが“マナー”なのだ。
私達イギリス人のように、静かに食べることを美徳とする人間にとって、これはなかなか難しい挑戦だし、他の国では嫌な気分にさせられうんざりするのだが、なぜだが日本人が麺類を音を立てて食べている様子はまったく不愉快ではなく、お行儀悪くも見えず、むしろ“つるつる”と食べている姿はとっても幸せそうだ。そしてそれはおいしいという事、もっと食べたいという気持ちの表れでもあるのだ。日本に来て2ヶ月。私達はこの事にすっかり慣れてきた。が・・・音をたてながら食べようとすると、スープが顔中にかかってしまい、なかなかうまくできない。
まぁ今日、高松市にある有名な『さか枝』でうどんを食べている時は誰もそんな事には気が付いていないと思うが・・・。『さか枝』にはオーダーをかける大きな声が響き渡り、テーブルの間を慌ただしく行き来し、そしてとにかくみんな食べることに必死だ。香川県人は、ここ『さか枝』をはじめ、自宅、そして県内に899店もあるうどん屋でうどんを食し、その量ざっと年間平均一人260杯にもなるらしい。
このお店はとにかく賑やかしい。それは長年にわたりおいしいさぬきうどんを提供してきた、いわば“有名店”だからだ。並みサイズのうどんに、天ぷらひとつで250円。このおいしさでこのお値段。すばらしい!
日本で一番小さい県、香川県はとにかく“うどん”への思い入れが強く、また、ここを訪れる観光客は、香川県が発祥の地だといわれるそのうどんを必ず食べていく。ちなみに・・・初めて日本を訪れる観光客の皆様に、日本でよく目にする(口にする)3大麺類をご紹介しよう。
“蕎麦”は紫がかった色のそば粉から作られる麺で、山間部や日本の北部でよく目にした。
“ラーメン”は黄色の麺で、カップ麺としてもよく目にする。
“うどん”は太く白い小麦粉から作られた麺だ。
『さか枝』では自分でうどんを受け取り、そこにトッピングをして(しょうがとゴマが私達のお気に入りだ!)そしてスープを入れる。うどんは他の麺類に比べて長いため、更に高度な“つるつる”と食べる技が求められる。そして食べ終わった頃には、顔中お汁だらけになっている。だが満足度は最高だ!
叔母さん、お行儀悪いと怒らずに許して下さい!
香川県の滞在でお世話になった皆様
香川県でお世話になった皆様のお名前を全て挙げると、数ページに渡ってしまうのではないかというほど、たくさんの方に温かく迎えていただきました。ありがとうございました。元山多美子さん、石川町子さん、田中邦子さん、尾倉さん、橘川さんをはじめ多くの皆様、本当に楽しい時間を過ごさせていただきました。そして大西高松市長、貴重なお時間を割いて下さりありがとうございました!
日本一小さな県、高松県を見て回るのは簡単そうに聞こえるかもしれませんが、とにかく見るものがたくさんの県で、驚きました。もし2度目の来日を計画している方、もしくは東京や京都などとは別のところに行きたいと思っておられる方は、香川県がお勧めです。ここには世界トップクラスの芸術、美しい庭園、日本一長い商店街などなど、魅力も見どころも満載です。もちろん神社はお寺などの文化建築もあり、何と言ってもうどん!ここには日本に求める全てが揃っています♪
喜代美山荘 花樹海さん、お世話になりありがとうございました。高松市を一望できる美しい旅館で、その景色もさることながら、本当に最高の滞在を楽しませていただきました。お部屋にあるパノラマお風呂や広いお部屋で旅の疲れを取ることができました。
本当にありがとうございました。
いろは会館『善通寺』さん、お世話になりました。宿坊での宿泊は、決して豪華なものではありません。ですが心豊かになる贅沢な経験でした。明日の朝5:45に起きて朝のお勤めをすることで更に深く知る事ができると思います。素晴らしい機会を頂き本当にありがとうございました。
5 Comments
thesoulofjapan
November 12, 2011This is the experience of lifetime. Enjoy it and learn about the real Japan.
cdb
November 14, 2011I’m more of a ramen person myself, but you’ve convinced me to give soba a go. Soba goes in the list.
"Tokyo Five"
November 14, 2011I love Udon…my favorite is “Curry Udon“. I recommend it.
And, if you have a chance, feel free to visit (and comment on) my blog about life in Tokyo. (Have you visited Tokyo yet?)
It’s here:
http://tokyo5.wordpress.com
Thanks. (And nice photos!)
Eunice
November 15, 2011Sanuki Udon – a solid choice! They sell them frozen in packs of 5 here in Canada. I usually get a good broth rolling, add veg + meat, drop a raw egg + onions on top and you’re ready to go for a delicious lunch!
Love the pic of the guy dispensing broth straight from the vat – genius!!
mikli
November 22, 2011I am Kagawa residents.
Japanese “UDON” highest!
I was allowed to introduce by my blog.