Haute Hakone
First of all I should make it clear: I don’t have to write this. I mean, no one has told me to write it, and I’d probably ignore them if they did. Secondly, you need to know about Gora Kadan, which might sound like a second division Romanian football team, but is in fact a ...
Fuji-itis
There is a mental condition of which you may not have heard: The Paris Syndrome. The symptoms are thus: Japanese tourists save up for a couple of years and use all of their scant holidays to travel half way around the world to the French capital. En route they read and reread their guide books ...
The Grape Escape
Travelling south in Japan at this time of year is like travelling back through time. This morning we made our way down from Matsumoto, to cross into Yamanashi prefecture and land in Kofu. The trees are still green, some of the rice hasn’t been harvested and it’s a good deal warmer than it had been ...
Raw Temptation
We had half an idea about Nagano before arriving in Japan. The monkeys, the legendary snow, the world class ski-runs… None of that was a surprise. The unbelievable autumn colours were a bonus; as was the hospitality of the people we met along the way. People like talented snow-fanatic Yasu of the Tabi Tabi Lodge ...
Monkey Business
When Katy and I first met we went through our favourite movies together, as new couples tend to do. There was plenty of crossover. Katy: “Have you seen Amelie?” I had seen Amelie. “Have you seen Garden State?” I had, even though I couldn’t remember much about it. “Have you seen Baraka?” I had not, ...
Kusatsu: It’s Not Just For Christmas (or Autumn Part Two)
The town of Zao Onsen, back in Yamagata prefecture, was a nice wee place – we just happened to arrive there at the wrong time of year. So it was with some trepidation that we arrived in Kusatsu in Gunma. On a grander, slightly more Swiss scale, this is a very similar town. Healing waters ...
Face Painting
As with most ancient religious figures, there is some conjecture about the true history of Daruma, a devout monk whose practise of extreme mediation gave rise to Zen Buddhism. One colourful tale that says once, during a nine session of staring at a wall, he once fell asleep. On waking, he was so disgusted with ...
A Dyeing Art and Miso Healthy
From the neon modernity of Tokyo and its surrounds, we couldn’t have ended up anywhere much more different than sleepy Chichibu. There are traditional buildings on every other corner, the air is crisp and clean, and we are surrounded by mountains. We have jumped out of the fire and into a cool pine-scented bath. It’s ...
A Brief Word On Trainspotting
1964. Britain still hangs its citizens; America is violently swithering about the Civil Rights Act; Bob Dylan introduces The Beatles to cannabis. Meanwhile, Japan is getting ready for its first Olympics by unleashing the shinkansen, or what the world will come to know as the Bullet Train. While the rest of the world may as ...
“Let’s become lost children together”
It’s 1995 and I am 12 years old. It is a very hot night in Scotland, which are as common as snowfall in Saudi Arabia. I am unable to sleep, so turn on the small television in the bedroom I share with my brother. There are four channels: the two from the BBC, which are ...
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